Rolex Submariner Ref 5512 Stainless Steel

This super clone Rolex Submariner 5512 is one of the most important references in Submariner history—famously among the first to introduce crown guards, the detail that defined the modern Sub silhouette going forward. Over its production run, Rolex made multiple variations of the 5512, from glossy dials to matte dials, with small but meaningful changes that serious Sub fans notice immediately. It can look close to the 5513 at a glance, but the 5512’s key edge is its chronometer-certified movement (COSC), a distinction that made it the more premium spec and gives the reference a sharper “top-tier” feel. Even within the 5512 family, dial text layouts vary, and that nuance is part of the appeal—the watch rewards a closer look, and the more you learn, the more special it feels on the wrist.

This example captures the magic that makes early 5512s so addictive: a gilt, glossy dial look with warmth and depth you simply don’t get on later matte dials. “Gilt” refers to the golden-toned printing (like the Rolex logo and dial text), while “glossy” describes that deep, lacquer-like black surface that reflects light and gives the watch a completely different personality. Details like the depth rating text and the way it sits on the dial add to the unmistakable vintage character—subtle from afar, but jaw-dropping up close. It’s the kind of Submariner that doesn’t need loud colors or extra polish to feel expensive; it sells itself the second light hits the dial.